The closest house was at least a
quarter mile north of where the three young surfers enjoyed the seclusion.
While the three to four feet waves offered no great challenges, beggars
couldn’t be choosey along this stretch of Grand Strand beach. The pack made up
of Cody, Tanner and Newt, sixteen year old best buds, were content to riding
the bumps, pumped just to be on the ocean. Tanner had just pulled off a duck
dive as he approached the other two straddling their boards.
“These are lame bumps today,”
commented Newt.
“It’s tough to do much carving
today, for sure,” added Tanner,
“Where’s your dream waves,” asked
Newt, paddling up beside the pack.
Tanner bobbed his head up and down.
“Got to be the Trestles in Orange
County , Cal. It’ supposed
to have easy paddle-outs and high-quality breakers.”
“No man. Numero uno has to be the
Pipeline in Oahu . Threading the nettle, how
cool would that be. Hell, just bobbing the perfect crest would be awesome.”
Cody gave the hang ten sign.
“I’d do the box,” said Newt. “It
has late takeoffs and right hand barrels.”
“Yeah, right, sharky place to surf,
dude,” scoffed Tanner.
“I would. Sure, it’s sharky as hell
but it would be worth it. Anywhere in Australia is going to have those
great whites. Double daring makes it cool. Same goes for the Supertubes of
Jeffrey’s Bay in South
Africa . Surfing Magazine said that’s where
the best right-handed rides in the world are.”
With that, Newt
broke off and got one but misjudged his dismount, hamming his left wrist
against the sandy bottom. He held his left arm trying to shake off the stinging
pain. One thing for sure, he wasn’t going to let on to the others. He bellied
down on the board and paddle back out. Once there, he flipped over on his back
and decided to take a break. He rode the bumps, facing towards the ocean while
Cody and Tanner searched for the next dune, wishing they actually existed along
the Atlantic Grand Strand.
“Look,” called out
Tanner, pointing to an enormous swell, “Got to be a rogue.”
The ocean piled
up, a small concentrated mountain forming and heading directly towards them.
Newt, fifteen yards away, still lying flat, the splashing water to the side of
his ears had obstructed him from hearing Cody and Tanner’s excitement. They had
already turned, belly down, paddling towards shore, timing to catch the once in
a life time big one, clearly now stacking upwards of fifteen feet. It was upon
them quicker than they had anticipated. Tanner managed to make it just ahead of
the potential crest, while Cody was still paddling like hell.
White water broke
like no other they had ever experienced. A gaping hole opened in the wave, a
dark cavity lined with rows of gigantic razor sharp teeth. Cody, surf board and
all was sucked into the hole in the wave, swirling as if caught in a giant flushing
toilet. Tanner was up, balancing on his board, but something wasn’t the norm.
He glanced over his shoulder to see why. Caught off guard by something entirely
un-wave like, he fell off his board just as his board disappeared inside the
nightmare. Still attached at the ankle, he was towed along for the ride. A
Tsunami crashed on shore washing away their street clothes and cooler resting
on the beach, any signs of them ever being there.
Newt, now aware of
the pattern change in the water, up righted himself, straddled the board and
then padded to face the shore. A huge bump was now moving ocean bound. He had
never witnessed a wave this large, one moving away from the shore. It was maybe
twenty yards wide and heading in his direction. Screams made him shift his
stare. Thrashing about just behind the crest of the wave was Tanner being
dragged helplessly behind it? Newt was spellbound. It was unclear what he
should do about the approaching bass-ackwards wave and his friend in distress.
The wave crashed inward and Newt watched helplessly, too late to avoid the
evitable.
Seconds later the Atlantic Ocean was as if nothing had ever happened. The
pack, boards and all, were gone. Three young surfers with aspirations of the
hanging perfect ten would never be found. Only their beat up Ford parked on an
old beach access dirt road would mark the last place they had visited. A search
would turn up nothing, surf boards reduced to tiny pieces that would wash
ashore eventually but would never be recognized for what they once were.
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